Pixie Hat Tutorial - Free Pattern

I found a free pattern and had to completely modify it to get this hat.  I think it turned out pretty good, so I will share it. Please comment if you use this pattern, I would like to know how it turns out for you.

Abbr.: chain = ch, slip stitch = slst, double crochet = dc, stitch = st, double crochet decrease = dc/dec

dc/dec: this will take two stitches and decrease it down to 1, yarn over, go through first st, yarn over and pull back through that stitch, you will have 3 loops on the hook, now yarn over and pull through two loops, you will now have 2 loops on the hook, yarn over and go through the second stitch, yarn over and pull through that stitch, you will have 4 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining 3 loops to finish the dc/dec. (see pic)

Example of a dc/dec, it is the stitch on the top left

Note: when counting the stitches in a row, the ch 3 is counted as 1 stitch and a dc/dec counts as one stitch

Pixie Hat
Size: about 12-16 months, it stretches to fit my 16 month old, but she is a little peanut.

Hook and Yarn: I am using Baby Bee Hushabye yarn and an 8/5.00mm hook.

Start by making a large slipknot, you will crochet onto this and then pull it tight to cinch up the top point of the hat.

Row 1: in the slipknot, ch3 (this is the 1st dc), 8 dc around and join with a slst (9 st)
             Close the slipknot by pulling on the end of the yarn.
Row 2: ch 3, 8 dc, join with a slst (9 st)
Row 3: ch 3, dc in the same st as ch3, 2 dc in each remaining st and join with a slst. (18 st)
Row 4: ch 3, 17 dc, join with slst (18 st)
Row 5: ch 3, 1 dc same stitch as ch 3, 1dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st, repeat from * around and join with a slst (27 st)   [updated 8-25-11]
Row 6: ch 3, 2 dc, * 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, repeat from * around and join with a slst {33 st}
Row 7: ch 3, 3 dc, * 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, repeat from * around and join with a slst {39 st}
Row 8: ch 3, 4 dc, * 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, repeat from * around and join with a slst {45 st}
Row 9 -12 : ch 3, 44 dc, join with a slst. {45 st in each row}
Row 13: ch 3, dc/dec, 39 dc, dc/dec, 1 dc, join with a slst {43 st} [updated 28-26-11]
Row 14: ch 3, 42 dc, join with a slst and break off, weave end in {43 st}
Row 15: the ch 3 stitch will be the center of the back of the hat, starting from that stitch, count 14 stitches to ones side or the other, do not count the center ch 3 stitch, start at this point and dc 29 from one side around the back to the other side, double check that your 15th stitch when counting from eihter side is the center ch 3 stitch and make sure you have 14 stitches in the front of the hat that you have not crocheted in, turn work {29 st} [the second hat I made I did 12 stitches across the front instead of 14]
Row 16: ch 3, dc/dec, 23 dc, dc/dec, 1 dc, turn work {27 st}
Row 17: ch 3, dc/dec, 2 dc, dc/dec, 2 dc, dc/dec, 5 dc, dc/dec, 2 dc, dc/dec, 2dc, dc/dec, 1dc, turn work {21 st} note: the 5 st should be centered in the back of the hat
Row 18: ch 3 dc/dec, 18 dc, turn work {20 st}

note: this following is the chin strap and you can make it as short or as long as you want, or you can end the hat at row 18 if you don't want a chin strap.

Row 19-30: ch 3, 2 dc, turn work {3 st} [the second hat I made I only did up to row 29 and then the row of sc]
Row 31: ch 1, 2 sc, end work and weave in tail to finish

sew a button onto the lower front corner of the side of the hat opposite of the chin strap, make sure the button just fits through one of the dc spaces

Pixie hat

Reversible Full Apron Tutorial

Start out by choosing the material you want to use. 

You will need:

1 yard each of A and B for the apron

1/3 of a yard of C and D for the pockets

1/4 of a yard of E and F for the neck strap and waist tie

*you could also just get 1/2 a yard of a coordinating material to use for the pocket, neck straps and waist ties, instead of having 3 different prints for each side of the apron.

Once you have your material picked out start cutting and make sure that the print runs vertical with the height measurements. 

You will need:

two 23" wide and 34" high, A & B

two 12" wide and 10" high , C&D

two 23" wide and 2 1/4" high, E&F (print direction doesn't matter)

two 70" wide and 2 1/2" high, E&F (print direction doesn't matter) *you can sew two pieces of material together to make the 70 inches instead of buying two yards of material for the length. You can also make these higher than 2 1/2 inches if you want a wider waist strap.

Pocket: on the back side of the pocket rectangle mark straight lines 1 inch in from all sides, fold over the material to line up with the marked lines and iron so that you have a 1/2 inch strip of material folded over around all sides of the pocket rectangle. On the top side of the pocket do a straight stitch 1/8 of an inch in from the finished edge and then do a zigzag stitch 1/2 inch in that will keep cut edge from fraying inside the pocket. (see picture below)

Decide where you want the pocket positioned on the apron, I did 15 inches up from the bottom, measure from all sides of the apron to make sure it is centered and square, pin in place and sew 1/8 inch in from the side and then 3/8 inch in from the side. Sew only around the two sided and the bottom, or you won't have a working pocket. :)

Neck Strap: Take a 24 inch piece of ribbon or yarn and sew it to one end of a 23 x 2 1/4 piece.

Lay the other 23 x 2 1/4 piece over top of it with right sides facing each other.

Sew a straight stitch 3/8 in on both sides of the strap

You will end up with this

 Now use the ribbon to pull the strap inside out, like this,

Take the 23x34 pieces with the pockets sew on and cut our the curved top of the apron. Make a template on a piece of paper that is 6 inches across the top and 10 inches along the side with a nice curve like this,

Trace the curve onto the material and cut using a rotary cutter for a nice smooth line, something like this,

Mark a 1 inch line on the back side of the top of the apron and iron over 1/2 inch of material, so that it is straight along the marked line. This will give you a finished edge along the top when you sew your apron together.

Pin your apron together and sew a straight stitch 3/8 in around the outside of the apron, leaving the top open, turn the apron inside out and iron the seams flat.

Take the neck strap and place it inside the top of the apron, all the way to the edge of opening on both sides. *You may want to pin it in place and try the apron on and see if you can shorten the neck strap so that you can just fit your head though the loop.

Sew a straight stitch 1/8 inch in from the edge all the way around the outside of the apron, this will sew the straps into place as well.

Now take your two 70" by 2 1/2" pieces and fold over and iron a 1/2 inch flap on both of the long sides.

Sew the two ends together with the front sides facing in

Mark the center on your apron and the center of your waist straps.

Turn the right side out, you will have one huge loop, with both ends of the different color straps sewn together. To attatch the waist tie, slide the apron inside the strap, line up the center and make sure that the strap goes straight across the apron. I used fusible bonding iron tape to hold the strap in place before I sewed both sided together. Once you have the strap sew on on, it is done!

Here are two aprons I made!